How to find your sensitivity

Copied a pro’s sensitivity and it still feels wrong? That’s normal. A sensitivity is how far the view turns when the mouse moves. Finding yours means one swipe on the pad you play on can do the turn you need, and you can stop on the thing you aimed at. A number copied from a player you like is their hand, their pad, and their game. Once your sens feels right, the rest of the aim and practice guides help you build on it.

I aim with a Logitech PRO 2 LIGHTSPEED at 1200 DPI, Overwatch in-game 3.5, FOV 103, left-handed, UHJK for movement. I play Zarya at Master (peak Master 1), 50–60 percent accuracy. That pair is what I queue with. It is not a number for you to paste. Mouse DPI is the count the sensor already sends. The Zarya guide is the fight. The converter, the cm/360 calculator, and eDPI live on /tools. This guide shows you how to pick your own pair and then stick with it. Aim training only transfers when the sensitivity in the drill is the sensitivity in the match. There’s no single best sensitivity, and you don’t need a new mouse to find yours. More under Guides.

Logitech’s PRO 2 support sheet lists 100–32,000 DPI and zero smoothing / acceleration / filtering. I leave the step at 1200.

What to check first

A sensitivity fits when one swipe on your pad does the turn and you can stop. Pick a DPI, try that swipe, and change one knob.

Mouse DPINot sure yet4008001600One swipe in the gameNot sure yetI fly past the targetIt stops where I meantI lift to finish the turnIn-game sliderI can still move itIt is already near the bottom

Do this

Pick one DPI

400, 800, or 1600. Use the same step on the desktop and in the game. Do not change it while you test the swipe.

The widget’s common steps are 400, 800, and 1600. Those are starting filters, not a rule. I already sit between 800 and 1600, at 1200. Pick one step and use it on the desktop and in the game. Do not cycle the DPI button during the test.

Turn off Enhance pointer precision before you trust the test, if the game uses the Windows pointer. That checkbox is acceleration: a fast swipe goes farther than a slow swipe of the same length. Microsoft’s mouse settings page is the official path: Settings → Bluetooth & devices → Mouse. The checkbox is on by default. For a desktop cursor, some people like it. For a match, it makes the same flick land in a different place depending on how fast you threw it, which is the opposite of practice. Many games read the mouse directly and ignore it. If those two swipes land in different places, you measured acceleration, not a sensitivity. Test again with the checkbox off. What mouse acceleration is is that checkbox.

Put the Windows pointer-speed slider in the middle on that same mouse page. A slider off to one side multiplies every swipe, even after the checkbox is cleared. The middle does not add its own scale. Then judge the swipe in the game, not only on the desktop. If the game has a raw-input switch, turn it on so the match reads the mouse. A desktop cursor that feels different is not the sensitivity you queue with.

The short version: one comfortable swipe, one knob, then write the centimeters. I sit at 1200 and 3.5. Do not copy that.

One swipe, then one knob

Pick a DPI and use that same step on the desktop and in the game. I sit at 1200. If you have not picked one, 400, 800, or 1600 is a clean start because those steps are easy to find in most mouse software. Do not cycle the DPI button during the test. A bumped step makes the next swipe a different speed, and you will blame your hand. Logitech’s G HUB stores the steps you saved. The light on the mouse is not a universal code for 1200.

Stand in the game you queue. For me that is Overwatch, as Zarya. Put the mouse where your hand actually starts. I play left-handed, so that start is on the left of the keyboard. Swipe once, the way you turn in a fight, and see whether you are facing the way you wanted when the mouse stops. Count the lifts. A second swipe to finish the turn is a miss of the test, not a style.

Use the turn you actually need. A look behind you and a small correction onto a target are different distances. If the long turn fits the pad and the small one still flies past, the sensitivity is too fast for the stop. Fix the stop. A setting that only feels right on the huge turn will miss the shot you take most. Zarya’s beam is a track. The stop still has to land.

Too fast means lower the in-game sensitivity and leave DPI where it is. If you lower both, you will not know which change you felt. Play the same turn again. Keep the new number only if the stop got cleaner.

Too slow means raise the in-game sensitivity and leave DPI. If the mouse reached the end of the pad before the turn finished, the pad is shorter than the swipe. A higher number makes that turn finish in less cloth. It does not add pad. If you like the slow turn and you are lifting because the cloth ended, the pad is the next object, not a new sensitivity.

The in-game slider already near the bottom, and the turn still too fast: drop DPI one step. 1600 becomes 800. 800 becomes 400. Then test the same swipe again. At 400, with the slider near the bottom, you are at the slow end of these steps. Lengthen the swipe on the pad before you go looking for a smaller number. I already sit at 1200 with room on the Overwatch slider.

Change one thing. Play the same turn. Stop when the swipe lands. Another pass after it already fits is how a setting that worked gets replaced.

The centimeter you can keep

DPI times the in-game number is a speed inside one game. Games do not share a sensitivity scale, so that product is not a setting you paste into the next game. The thing you can keep is the hand: how many centimeters the mouse moved to turn all the way around.

Aimlabs’ sensitivity converter names that measurement cm/360, or 360 distance: “a universal measurement of the centimeters of mouse movement required to rotate 360 degrees.” Then you match that distance in the next game. My tools do the same job in the browser: a sensitivity converter, a cm/360 calculator, and eDPI. Nothing leaves the device.

Face a mark on a wall in the game. Turn until that mark is in the same place again. Measure the path the mouse took on the pad. If you had to lift and reset, measure both pieces and add them. That total is the centimeters for one full turn. Write it next to the DPI and the in-game number. A ruler beside the mouse is enough.

A half turn is half of that circle. If you only measured until you were facing the other way, double the centimeters before you call it a full turn. Do not guess the rest of the path.

In a new game, do not paste the old slider number. I would not paste 3.5 into a different title and call it matched. Measure again, or open /tools and move the new slider until a full turn takes the same centimeters and the mark comes back. The number on the slider can look nothing like the old one. That is the point of measuring the mouse instead of the menu. If you want the yaw multiply written out for one pair, Overwatch to Valorant and Overwatch to CS2 are the pages that start from my 3.5. For your own Overwatch number, cm/360, eDPI and a DPI switch in one place, use the Overwatch sensitivity converter.

Field of view changes how wide the picture looks. I sit at FOV 103. A full turn back to the same mark is still a full turn of the view. Measure the mouse on the pad. Do not match the slider digits, and do not retune because the picture got wider. The centimeters are the hand. The FOV is the window. The FOV converter turns that 16:9 horizontal number into the matching vertical and aspect-ratio figures. It does not change your cm/360.

eDPI is a nickname inside one game

Corsair’s eDPI calculator uses the standard formula: eDPI = DPI × in-game sensitivity. Inside one game that product describes speed. Two people with the same eDPI in the same title move the crosshair the same distance, even if one of them sits at 400 DPI and the other sits at 1600. I sit at 1200 × 3.5 in Overwatch. That product is a nickname for my pair. It is not a setting you type into another game.

Games do not share a sensitivity scale. Corsair’s own page says the same thing in different words: titles that use a decimal slider and titles that use a percent do not share one product. That’s why you keep cm/360, not eDPI, when you change games. eDPI is a shortcut inside Overwatch, or inside whatever title you just measured. The centimeters travel. The product stays home.

SteelSeries GG’s sensitivity tools say the same keep: translate the sens so your cm/360° stays consistent between games. Open /tools. Type the pair you already play. Read the centimeters. Leave the other game’s slider blank until you are in that game.

What people mix up with a new number

A copied pro setting is the usual miss. Their pad is not your pad. Their hand is not your hand. Their game scale is often not your game scale. Mine is 1200 and 3.5. Copying it skips the swipe on your cloth. Don’t copy my number; find your own with the converter.

A trainer score on a different sensitivity is the second miss. The practice block uses this pair. Changing the sensitivity inside a trainer to chase a score teaches a different hand than the one you queue with. Aimlabs also ships a Universal Sens Finder that changes the number while you train. Don’t turn that on before ranked. If you open a trainer at all, match the cm/360 you queue with. Aim training still comes second to the range in the game you queue.

A DPI button you bumped is the third miss. If aim feels off a month later, open the mouse software and see whether the step moved before you decide your hand got worse. The PRO 2 can hold more than one saved step. I leave one step at 1200 so a misclick cannot jump me to a speed I never practice.

A pad that ends mid-turn is the fourth. The mouse pad page is the cloth. Raising sensitivity to finish a 360 on a mat that is too short is a setting that hides a short swipe. If you like the slow turn, buy the width, or accept the lift.

A shell that fights your grip feels wrong at every number. Finding a sensitivity will not fix a shape or a weight. Choosing the mouse is that shell. I already own the PRO 2.

Windows pointer speed off-center is the last one that still fools people after they cleared the checkbox. The slider is a multiplier. The middle is the setting that does not add one. Test in the game. The desktop cursor is not the crosshair.

How to choose, then stop

Start from the DPI you already use if you know it. I start from 1200 because that is the step on the PRO 2. If you do not know it, pick 400, 800, or 1600 in the maker’s software and delete the extra steps. Clear Enhance pointer precision. Park the pointer-speed slider in the middle. Turn raw input on if the game has the switch.

Stand in the game you queue. One swipe. Lower the in-game number if you fly past. Raise it if you lift. Leave DPI alone until the slider is out of room. Measure the centimeters for a full turn. Write three things: the DPI, the in-game sensitivity, and the cm/360. Open /tools if you would rather have the calculator do the arithmetic.

Then leave them. Play. The first fights after a change will feel odd even when the stop is cleaner. That is the hand catching up, not a sign to retune the same night. If you change games later, match the centimeters. Do not paste 3.5.

Write the three numbers down. Leave them while you play. If aim feels off a month later, open the mouse software and see whether the DPI step moved before you decide your hand got worse.

One swipe that stops, one knob, then the centimeters on /tools.

Related: Guides, How to increase FPS, How to warm up before ranked, Hardware.

Common questions

How do I find my perfect sensitivity?

Set your mouse DPI once and leave it, then adjust only the in-game sensitivity. If a normal swipe overshoots your target, lower it. If you have to lift your mouse to finish a turn, raise it. Stop when your swipes land where you mean them to.

Should I change DPI or in-game sensitivity?

Change in-game sensitivity and leave your DPI alone. Only lower DPI if the in-game slider is already near the bottom and it's still too fast. Changing both at once makes it hard to tell what made the difference.

What is a good sensitivity for FPS games?

The best sensitivity is one where a comfortable swipe turns you where you want and you can stop on target. Most competitive players land somewhere around 25 to 40 cm per 360. I play at 1200 DPI and 3.5 sensitivity in Overwatch.

What is cm/360?

It's how many centimeters you move your mouse to turn a full 360 degrees in game. It's the best way to compare sensitivity between games, because it measures real hand movement instead of a game's slider number. You can calculate it with the cm/360 calculator on our tools page.

What is eDPI?

eDPI is your mouse DPI multiplied by your in-game sensitivity. For example, 1200 DPI at 3.5 sensitivity is 4200 eDPI. It's useful for comparing settings within the same game, but not between different games.

How do I keep the same sensitivity in a different game?

Match your cm/360 instead of copying the slider number. Measure how far you move for a full turn in your old game, then adjust the new game until a full turn takes the same distance. Our sensitivity converter does this math for you.

Does Windows mouse acceleration affect my sensitivity?

It can. With Enhance pointer precision on, fast swipes travel farther than slow ones, which makes your aim inconsistent. Most games use raw input and ignore it, but if yours doesn't, turn it off in Windows mouse settings.

Should I copy a pro player's sensitivity?

No. A pro's sensitivity fits their hand, mouse pad and play style. It can be a starting point, but you'll aim better with a sensitivity you tuned yourself.

How often should I change my sensitivity?

As rarely as possible. Once you find a setting that works, write down your DPI, in-game sensitivity and cm/360, then stick with it. Changing every week resets your muscle memory.